Braid difficulty

Question for the braid users and those sticking with mono over braid. I know this can turn into a 4 page long debate on most fishing forums with plenty of insults thrown about, and that isn't at all my intention (and this seems like a very supportive forum where that is less likely to happen). My question relates to learning to use braid. I've researched it several times and read nearly every forum post about it that I've been able to find. I'm somewhat familiar with the positives and negatives of both and can understand (generally) why one is better than another in different situations. My real question is how hard is it to learn to properly use braid? I've surf fished for several years, however the cumulative total of time I've spent actually fishing isn't overly significant (3-4 hours a day for a week each year for about 3-4 years). I've fished most of my life, though generally fresh water and offshore charters, so I pretty comfortable with my equipment, but from what I've read, braid is a totally different animal. I've read that it literally will cut your hands open if handled wrong or during casting, and knot tying is different from mono. That all being said, I was considering using braid on my smaller reel (shimano 300q AX (from about 23 years ago)) on my 7' fast action rod. Based on some great feedback from others on this site i plan to use the combo for a mix of bottom rigs, bait under corks and also throwing mirrolures and gotchas and bucktails. Seems like i would get better casting abilities with the braid and better responsiveness, but I'm going to give up forgiveness, which can be an asset to the inexperienced hook setters like me. So is using braid properly (and safely) something that a person with some experience can figure out relatively quickly or is it something you literally have to spend hours and hours getting the hang of? Even if i did spool the braid, i would still bring my 10lb ande back country mono with me for a quick change out if the braid was just not to my liking.

I spooled up a smaller reel of mine with braid once for Spanish, etc. I used 20# powerpro, and for throwing plugs and gotcha's and soft plastics it did fine. Unfortunately, the spanish weren't hitting that very well because they were killing the small LY's. When I switched over to trying to fish the live bait, I quickly observed that my powerpro wasn't sinking and wouldn't allow the LY to swim deeply enough to get bit as much as everyone else was. A quick trip to J&M for some 8# Momoi Illusion solved that problem to my satisfaction, and I haven't used braid since. Truthfully, fishing for the smaller fish, I haven't found anything that 8# mono won't handle....and sometimes 4# is even better. The lighter line casts almost as well as the braid does, it seems to me.

That said, the "learning curve" for fishing braid wasn't that difficult for casting plugs and gotcha lures. I've used it and fireline in freshwater situations for a long time. I learned the hard way that if you are holding the line and freespooling a bait and not watching carefully...a mackerel can give you a bad cut before you can get your finger out of the way. :)

My 2 cents.

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Originally Posted by Rich1

I spooled up a smaller reel of mine with braid once for Spanish, etc. I used 20# powerpro, and for throwing plugs and gotcha's and soft plastics it did fine. Unfortunately, the spanish weren't hitting that very well because they were killing the small LY's. When I switched over to trying to fish the live bait, I quickly observed that my powerpro wasn't sinking and wouldn't allow the LY to swim deeply enough to get bit as much as everyone else was. A quick trip to J&M for some 8# Momoi Illusion solved that problem to my satisfaction, and I haven't used braid since. Truthfully, fishing for the smaller fish, I haven't found anything that 8# mono won't handle....and sometimes 4# is even better. The lighter line casts almost as well as the braid does, it seems to me.

That said, the "learning curve" for fishing braid wasn't that difficult for casting plugs and gotcha lures. I've used it and fireline in freshwater situations for a long time. I learned the hard way that if you are holding the line and freespooling a bait and not watching carefully...a mackerel can give you a bad cut before you can get your finger out of the way. :)

My 2 cents.

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Thanks Rich1. That is very helpful. You made me think about the fact that i often struggle with my large combo (7500SS, 10' Star Rod, 20# ande mono) being affected by the strong winds and breakers when i opt for bait on a weight method. Makes me wonder if using braid on the big reel would help with the casting abilities as well as keeping wind impact to a minimum. The way the beach generally sets up in front of our rental house is tough because the first real cut/slough is pretty far offshore and getting anything out there requires some wading and a very serious cast.

Braid is great for surf fishing to help with casting. On the pier it is frowned upon in applications other than throwing lures and plugs because it can be harder to see and as Rich said it can also be dangerous. Sometimes you have to feed fish with a little extra line off the spool before you set the hook and let the drag start doing its work. In that situation you could end up going to the ER if you aren't careful because it will cut you like a knife. The best thing to do in a surf fishing situation is to use a monk shock leader to save your finger during casting.

I know this much, it will cut the shit out of your finger if you load up on it to hard

If your going to be throwing large baits or weight wrap the end of your finger with tape or a band-aid and it will solve the cutting problem

Skin is some pretty tough stuff and I honestly don't think it would have helped in my particular situation.

this is my concern. I am pretty adept at casting the big and small rods, but everyone screws up every once in a while right? Up to this point my mono screw ups haven't caused me to be out an ER insurance co pay for stitches and antiboitocs. But i'd be lying if i said i wasn't intrigued by the increased casting distance and responsiveness offered by braid.

I've been experimenting with fishing braided lines for about two years now, and if I can learn to use it properly (and safely ;-) anybody can!
You mentioned using it on an older reel, but it may not have a line roller compatible with braid.
Braid can be a PITA throwing into the wind.
You have to diligently check the spool for wind knots after each cast before reeling up slack line.
It is UNFORGIVING (no stretch) so casting heavy weights or plugs is potentially dangerous.
But it can be rewarding, with longer casts and no line twist to deal with.
plus fewer breakoffs because the line is so damn strong for its size.

A very useful casting tool for launching heavy weighted braid is the Breakaway Cannon which can save a finger or fingertip.

Hope this helps!

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Originally Posted by Pier#r

I've been experimenting with fishing braided lines for about two years now, and if I can learn to use it properly (and safely ;-) anybody can!
You mentioned using it on an older reel, but it may not have a line roller compatible with braid.
Braid can be a PITA throwing into the wind.
You have to diligently check the spool for wind knots after each cast before reeling up slack line.
It is UNFORGIVING (no stretch) so casting heavy weights or plugs is potentially dangerous.
But it can be rewarding, with longer casts and no line twist to deal with.
plus fewer breakoffs because the line is so damn strong for its size.

A very useful casting tool for launching heavy weighted braid is the Breakaway Cannon which can save a finger or fingertip.

Hope this helps!

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that is a great point. i never considered the fact that the reel in question was most certainly never intended to use braid. Do most people just use a mono backing in this case or is there something more fundamentally at issue with an older reel in relation to braid? will it be an issue with line lay or line coming off the spool when casting? Unfortunately my best fishing equipment source around here is bass pro (which i actually love going to) but the guys are almost all exclusively freshwater bass guys (as you would expect in good old Dallas, TX). They know their stuff, but they usually admit to not being salt water guys. I would imagine the bass pro off I-10 outside mobile has a salt water section that would triple what i've got here.

You also mentioned the wind issue, which from experience has been something i have dealt with when trying to fish from the gulf side of Ft. Morgan (as well as when i've fished the end of the point at dixey bar). It always seems to be windy in Gulf Shores/Ft. Morgan. I thought the braid was supposed to be less susceptible to the wind, but i guess what that really means is that the wind won't impact your line as much once it's in the water, not necessarily easier casting in the wind.

Odds are the line roller on an older reel will have some 'soft' metal (or plating) that may wear down as the braid 'cuts' into it.
Not good for the line to rub across rough metal ;-)
Plus the gearing may not be able to handle the additional stress of using a stronger line.

Any relatively 'new' reel that has a braid line capacity rating should be able to handle braided line within the posted range.
For instance if the reel says:

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Mono Cap. (yds/lb)
250/6
170/8
140/10

Braid Cap. (yds/lb)
275/10
205/15
170/20

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It should be able to adequately handle up to 20 pound line (braid).

BTW, just because a reel doesn't say "saltwater" doesn't mean it won't work in saltwater.
I put 300 yards of 30# braid on a BPS Extreme EX50 spinning reel to king fish with and have been very pleased with the performance so far (a year).
At first I just threw plugs with it, but snobbled some this week and caught a king on it!
Attachment 2065

No doubt I was throwing that cig farther into the 15-20 knot wind than the folks using mono, as it only has the diameter of 8#-10# mono!
Luv the feel of a fish running 200+ yards on braid.
I could feel every tail beat and every headshake to the point I thought I'd been sharked several times. lol

i remember i was fishin one of my convintionals i use for verical jigging with 80# braid off fairhope pier ( one of my worst mistakes when I really didnt know how to catch jacks and was sorta a googan at the time). I accidently got a backlash and as i was pullin it out it got wrapped around my finger all the sudden i felt my line go tight but thank got i puled my finger away in that split second. I wouldnt have a finger right now. One lesson i learned is dont fish heavy braid on a pier. but i like what #r said with that smaller braid u can cast a mile and can have a lotta fun on a smaller reel

the main thing braid is good depending on the fish you are targeting and where you are targeting it at and of course the person you are. for example (in my opinion) braid would be better fishing around structures and reefs than mono but everyone has there own opinion i use braid on the pier flounder fishing ive saved so much tackle and money fishin for flounder with braid vs mono, and i use it cobia fishin. braid doesnt stretch mono does and braid cast further. braid typically gets more knots than mono and its harder to get untangled. if i had to chose id rather have mono it all just depends on the kind of person you are.

I won't use braid for float fishing for reasons rich said and the fact you'll probably get you line cut if you do. I do have braid on my stradic for the extra length but I like working with mono so I put about 6 rotations worth of a #20 mono topshot. I love using it with spoons and gotchas or whatever when I'm steady reeling in. My intentions(hopefully) is to throw yozuri's at kings with it, I'm betting that'll be a good time.

If you're gonna be king fishing off the end when its elbow to elbow please use mono or a high vis braid.

I will offer some advice, as I have been toying around with braided lines and testing different brands over the past 5 years.

My first advice, Hi Vis Yellow. You simply will NOT see any other color of braided line. To me, there is no other color when it comes to braid BUT Hi Vis Yellow.

Next, if you are fishing from the pier or anywhere inshore, don't go over 10# test braided line. I use 3 sizes depending which reel. 5#, 8# and 10#. My 2# and 4# setups are mono only--as braid becomes useless at a smaller diameter than the 5# size offers--especially if it has slick and dense properties like Nanofil (yuck)! There is a catch here, though. If your rod and reel are designed for larger sized lines, then you may be required to step up the size to 20#, or even 30# test braid, in order to avoid issues. I enjoy fishing with lighter gear (so do my damaged shoulders and back), so lighter lines are much suited to the reels and rods I use.

Next is Brand. I've tried well over two dozen brands and left reviews for each company after some extensive testing. My advice? Power Pro SPECTRA. Some people are diehard PP Super Slick 8, and some are diehard other brands--and newer brands are coming out every year (some which I haven't tried and probably won't bother trying). PP Spectra, however, allows you to go into a smooth, abrasion resistant line under 10# test, and my favorite by far is the 5# size in Hi Vis Yellow. You can cast it, against the wind (and sing Bob Seger at the same time), much further than your neighboring anglers. After doing some strength tests, we found the 5#-10# versions to be stronger than 10# super slick 8 as well against dead weight snapping.

Now, how to use it? To answer your question, this will depend on what you are fishing for and your style of fishing, as well as the set up you are using.

However, I will throw out some basics that will help you. First, add about 20 yards are mono backing to the base of the reel. This will prevent the braid from free spinning around the reel. Tie the braid to the mono backing using a 6 to 8 twist double uni or blood knot. Now, spool your reel with your braid. Tuck it tight, but not so tight that the line digs into the spool cavity.

Next is the key element. If you are fishing inshore and doing a lot of artificial casting, then you need a mono top shot. The mistake most people make fishing with braid is they tie it directly to the swivel/leader or lure, then proceed to cast it and find it digs into their finger everytime it gets wet and slippery. Big mistake--as it will groove into your skin quickly that way, and it is tough to hold on to.

Instead, run mono through the rod, and have it wrap the reel a few times. Now, when you cast, your finger is holding on to mono, rather than thin, slippery braided line. You will also have mono attached to your swivel/leader or lure, and doing so will give you shock and stretch to set a hook (while straight braid can break a hook or fish's mouth tissue on set). In addition, mono or fluorocarbon will be more stealthy than your braided line (which fish can easily see in the water). Also, braid tends to be stranded, and strands become lacey in the water (especially if frayed or cut), and then snag onto things such as sinkers, hooks, swivels, wire leaders, bait, etc.--then become knotted and matted beyond repair. Having a mono top shot will fix this 95% of the time, and also greatly reduce your wind knots by putting forward weight into your cast--as well as prevent cast snaps of the fly by stretching into the cast more forgivingly.

Now, once you leave inshore and go to the pier, you want to extend your top shot. Now, if you are casting lures, you can leave it as is--as extending the top shot will affect your casting distance. However, if you are going to king fish by snobbling or using live bait, then extending the top shot is a must. I suggest putting about 10-20 yards of mono top shot over your Hi Vis Yellow braided line.

This does a few things: it gives you some nice needed stretch when setting the hook on a fast running fish, such as a King. It also adds more weight to the end of your line--helping bait to sink more and also wearing your target fish out more quickly during the fight. Most importantly, it offers you flexibility and play once you have the fish at the pier awaiting gaffing or netting near the pylons. Braid can be unforgiving and snap at the touch of a barnacle or fin, and cut other people's lines once in close proximity of the pier. If out of nothing but respect for others fishing nearby on the pier, 10-20 yards of mono topshot prevents close range cutoffs of others, and that's always a plus. Also, once cast out, the mono will be in the water, and your braided Hi Vis Yellow will be visible from the water surface up to your pole tip--always helping you see clearly where your line is, or isn't.

All of that said, in my opinion, braid has one use, and one use only. Strong line capacity without memory. Therefore, use it to that advantage. Get more line capacity on your reel using braid, and be confident that what you spooled under your topshot will be memory free and at a consistent level of strength.

Getting that extra distance can help land a fish on lighter lines. How so? Well, think about punching your arm under water. Water resistance slows your arm down. Now, imagine you are a fish with 200 yards of line trailing behind you. Everytime the fish swims sideways, it is pulling that line against the water's resistance per each unit of line. The line isn't stressed--instead, the fish is. After a few good runs, the fish is done and you're reeling in a log; thus the main reason I am a firm believer that the target fishes we catch at the pier never need any line with a greater strength than 10# (ironically, I am more successful using the 5# PP spectra).

Now, if you're fishing off a boat and reef, or targetting big daddy runners offshore, that's a whole other ball of wax.

I hope this helps, but if you have more questions, don't hesitate to ask.

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Originally Posted by Pier#r

Odds are the line roller on an older reel will have some 'soft' metal (or plating) that may wear down as the braid 'cuts' into it.
Not good for the line to rub across rough metal ;-)
Plus the gearing may not be able to handle the additional stress of using a stronger line.

Any relatively 'new' reel that has a braid line capacity rating should be able to handle braided line within the posted range.
For instance if the reel says:


It should be able to adequately handle up to 20 pound line (braid).

BTW, just because a reel doesn't say "saltwater" doesn't mean it won't work in saltwater.
I put 300 yards of 30# braid on a BPS Extreme EX50 spinning reel to king fish with and have been very pleased with the performance so far (a year).
At first I just threw plugs with it, but snobbled some this week and caught a king on it!
Attachment 2065

No doubt I was throwing that cig farther into the 15-20 knot wind than the folks using mono, as it only has the diameter of 8#-10# mono!
Luv the feel of a fish running 200+ yards on braid.
I could feel every tail beat and every headshake to the point I thought I'd been sharked several times. lol

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my little old shimano definitely does not have a braid capacity listing on the spool. I received it as a gift back around 1991 if I had to guess. might even be older than that honestly. model 300q AX. see Ebay link for an example.

Shimano 300Q AX Quickfire Bio Grip Rear Drag Ball Bearing Mint | eBay

do you think it's possible to use braid on a reel like this (with a mono backing)? I was already planning on buying a new surf reel to replace my 7500ss, just due to the 7500ss feeling too big for my 10' rod. Was thinking of something in the 5500 size range based on some other members suggestions. Seems like that could handle most anything I would be trying to land from the beach or a kayak. So that being said, I wasn't planning on buying a new small reel just to try out braid. I guess i can spool the shimano with mono and braid and if it breaks, it doesn't owe me anything at this point.

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Originally Posted by mforbesiii

my little old shimano definitely does not have a braid capacity listing on the spool. I received it as a gift back around 1991 if I had to guess. might even be older than that honestly. model 300q AX. see Ebay link for an example.

Shimano 300Q AX Quickfire Bio Grip Rear Drag Ball Bearing Mint | eBay



do you think it's possible to use braid on a reel like this (with a mono backing)? I was already planning on buying a new surf reel to replace my 7500ss, just due to the 7500ss feeling too big for my 10' rod. Was thinking of something in the 5500 size range based on some other members suggestions. Seems like that could handle most anything I would be trying to land from the beach or a kayak. So that being said, I wasn't planning on buying a new small reel just to try out braid. I guess i can spool the shimano with mono and braid and if it breaks, it doesn't owe me anything at this point.

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i dont know if i would fish braid on that reel the braids worth more than the reel but if u wanna sell that 7500 shoot me a pm

If I'm going to fish braid inshore I'm gonna use straight braid with no mono shock leader unless it an actual leader for the lure. One thing to keep in mind with running straight braid is that it has less drag in the water than mono does. Also you need to make sure that the line isn't stronger than the rod it's being fished on. It is very easy to bust the new graphite rods with braid due to there being no stretch.

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Originally Posted by the original pier pest

If I'm going to fish braid inshore I'm gonna use straight braid with no mono shock leader unless it an actual leader for the lure. One thing to keep in mind with running straight braid is that it has less drag in the water than mono does. Also you need to make sure that the line isn't stronger than the rod it's being fished on. It is very easy to bust the new graphite rods with braid due to there being no stretch.

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Interesting. I have a 7' tourney special bass pro rod. med-hvy power, fast action, rated for 6-17lb line. Do you think that would be ok with something like 10 or 15# braid?

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Originally Posted by southernfishin

i dont know if i would fish braid on that reel the braids worth more than the reel but if u wanna sell that 7500 shoot me a pm

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You've got a point about that. The little old shimano has been great for me over the years, but it's probably not a braid reel, or at least not without some mono backing. Even then I might be pushing my luck.

I'm holding onto the 7500SS for two reasons. 1. sentimental. first reel I personally bought and has been pretty good to me. 2. If I decide to do any bigger type of fishing, I have the reel I need. I took it apart the other day to see how bad the inside looked after being 15 years old and it was perfect inside. I was surprised. Not a grain of sand or any rust.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the original pier pest

If I'm going to fish braid inshore I'm gonna use straight braid with no mono shock leader unless it an actual leader for the lure. One thing to keep in mind with running straight braid is that it has less drag in the water than mono does. Also you need to make sure that the line isn't stronger than the rod it's being fished on. It is very easy to bust the new graphite rods with braid due to there being no stretch.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mforbesiii

Interesting. I have a 7' tourney special bass pro rod. med-hvy power, fast action, rated for 6-17lb line. Do you think that would be ok with something like 10 or 15# braid?

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If doing a lot of short range precision casting with artificials around structures, I will use this method Jeb mentioned, as you'll have more control on your lure and where it lands--as well as smoother casting.

As for breaking a rod due to braid, that would be more of a failure on the part of the fisherman not understanding how to properly set or use drag, and would only happen realistically if someone is either cranking down unnecessary with much stronger line than needed, or fishing situations where fish are being pulled off structures and letting the fish run isn't an option--in which case stronger gear would be needed anyhow to support the line needed to do that.

Using 10# braid shouldn't lead you into such an issue, and I think it would be a good fit for your 6-17 rated. Personally, I'd suggest you drop down to 5#-8# (PP Spectra) if you're casting artificals and have a blast on that. Otherwise, if you're using live bait or snobbling, then go ahead with 10#-15# range and get that extra strength.

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Originally Posted by Viking Guy

If doing a lot of short range precision casting with artificials around structures, I will use this method Jeb mentioned, as you'll have more control on your lure and where it lands--as well as smoother casting.

As for breaking a rod due to braid, that would be more of a failure on the part of the fisherman not understanding how to properly set or use drag, and would only happen realistically if someone is either cranking down unnecessary with much stronger line than needed, or fishing situations where fish are being pulled off structures and letting the fish run isn't an option--in which case stronger gear would be needed anyhow to support the line needed to do that.

Using 10# braid shouldn't lead you into such an issue, and I think it would be a good fit for your 6-17 rated. Personally, I'd suggest you drop down to 5#-8# (PP Spectra) if you're casting artificals and have a blast on that. Otherwise, if you're using live bait or snobbling, then go ahead with 10#-15# range and get that extra strength.

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Thanks Viking Guy. I actually had typed a long response to your previous reply on this and I have no idea what happened to it. Regardless, it was very helpful and definitely gave me more clarity around when and if braid would really be that beneficial for me.

Since I have no actual experience with it, I see no reason not to use the Spectra like you suggested. Got to rely on the people that have actually tried different brands and fish enough to know what works and what doesn't. It's how I ended up using Ande back country mono, which I really liked a lot.

You had mentioned pier fishing in your other post and the use of greater mono top shot. I won't be making it over to the pier, but I still think a reasonable amount of top shot is probably the way to go regardless of where I end up. I mostly plan to fish from the beach or in a kayak just beyond the breakers or on the bay side.

I looked at Bass Pro's website and for the life of me, I can't find 8# PP Spectra. I see 5 and 10, but not 8. I think 8 would be the right fit for my 7' rod based on what you've said above.

Also, regarding bass pro, will they be able to spool the mono backing, braid, and then mono top shot? I assume I can use my current Ande Back Country 10# mono for the backing and the top shot.

I can't recall, but PP may only offer their regular braid in 8#. I will check online later tonight for you. If you must choose, definitely get the spectra over the regular and with with 5 or 10.

My advice may be 10#, primarily because casting at the beach may take some extra umph, in which case having top shot to cast off your finger will definitely be helpful.

If you are local to this area, I will gladly spool it up for you if you get the line. Bass Pro will do it, but I might be a little more meticulous on your behalf.

Also keep in mind that your braid rating on the box is not going to be what it is in real life. If you notice on break offs it's always at the connection either on your line to line knot or the knot on your hook. A knot weaken the line strength by a large margin(If I remember correctly its about 30-40%, so your 10# test will actually holds about 6-7#)

And I agree with Viking guy, if your rod breaks its user error. The line rating printed on a rod meant to show the best rated line for castabily, if a rod is rated for 25-40# I dare anyone to lift up 40lb of dead weight to it. And if you look at some of the rods it'll actually show you the best line for it in mono and braid and that should tell you it's rating is for castabilty and not how strong the rod is.

On my offshore setup I usually fish with at least pe5 braid and my rod is rated for pe3 or less, I haven't broke a rod yet. You have to learn how to properly handle a fish once you hook it.

Ok mforbesiii. I checked out my arsenal when I got home.

The 8# I have is regular braid hi vis yellow, and I also have a blue colored pp ice - tec 8#.

PP micro line is also available in 3 and 4 # and I love using it for specks.

If you go with spectra, it will be either 5 or 10. In strength tests, the 5 has proven nearly as strong as the 10 with smaller diameter. You might find you like it better as you could get more in the reel.

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Originally Posted by Viking Guy

Ok mforbesiii. I checked out my arsenal when I got home.

The 8# I have is regular braid hi vis yellow, and I also have a blue colored pp ice - tec 8#.

PP micro line is also available in 3 and 4 # and I love using it for specks.

If you go with spectra, it will be either 5 or 10. In strength tests, the 5 has proven nearly as strong as the 10 with smaller diameter. You might find you like it better as you could get more in the reel.

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I think i can get the Spectra in 8#. Tackle Warehouse seems to show it as available online but only in moss green and only 150 yards. To get 300 yards you have to bump up to 10#. Funny though. The bass pro website doesn't seem to have the 8# listed.

I don't live in the area, but I appreciate the offer to spool the line for me. I'm in Dallas. I have a basspro near where I work, but I don't know how willing they are to spool mono backing then braid on top. I was hoping to be able to do it on my own if possible. Any tips on spooling mono then braid that i should be using? I've seen videos where people run the braid through a phone book to keep the tension higher. I could probably come up with something similar around my garage if necessary.

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Originally Posted by mforbesiii

I think i can get the Spectra in 8#. Tackle Warehouse seems to show it as available online but only in moss green and only 150 yards. To get 300 yards you have to bump up to 10#. Funny though. The bass pro website doesn't seem to have the 8# listed.

I don't live in the area, but I appreciate the offer to spool the line for me. I'm in Dallas. I have a basspro near where I work, but I don't know how willing they are to spool mono backing then braid on top. I was hoping to be able to do it on my own if possible. Any tips on spooling mono then braid that i should be using? I've seen videos where people run the braid through a phone book to keep the tension higher. I could probably come up with something similar around my garage if necessary.

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The Spanish Fort BPS does that all the time.
Usually we try to calculate all the line into a formula that is 'size compatible' for mono backing.
For instance 20# braid with 6# (or 8#) mono as backing,
50# braid with 20# mono, etc.

Trouble is many reel manufacturers exaggerate their reel line capacity (Shimano is the worst) and most braid manufacturers under exaggerate their line thickness (PP is the worst).
This ends up with a situation where you still have braid on the spooler but the reel is full.
So the only recourse is to strip it all off and start over again. And I HATE wasting my (and the customer's) time doing that!

So THE best method I've found (with spinning reels) is to tie the braid on the reel spool and run all of it off, THEN tie on the mono backing on and fill the spool to "full capacity".
Then get another spool of the exact same reel and spool the lines onto it, reversing the process.
Works perfectly EVERY time ;-)

Hope this helps!

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Originally Posted by Pier#r

The Spanish Fort BPS does that all the time.
Usually we try to calculate all the line into a formula that is 'size compatible' for mono backing.
For instance 20# braid with 6# (or 8#) mono as backing,
50# braid with 20# mono, etc.

Trouble is many reel manufacturers exaggerate their reel line capacity (Shimano is the worst) and most braid manufacturers under exaggerate their line thickness (PP is the worst).
This ends up with a situation where you still have braid on the spooler but the reel is full.
So the only recourse is to strip it all off and start over again. And I HATE wasting my (and the customer's) time doing that!

So THE best method I've found (with spinning reels) is to tie the braid on the reel spool and run all of it off, THEN tie on the mono backing on and fill the spool to "full capacity".
Then get another spool of the exact same reel and spool the lines onto it, reversing the process.
Works perfectly EVERY time ;-)

Hope this helps!

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Thanks #r. That helps. I will try the BPS near me and see what they think. I haven't run into a lot of guys at this BPS that do any salt water stuff, so getting advice can be difficult. I would imagine the BPS where you work is A LOT more informed when it comes to the salt water applications and methods.

Your method definitely seems like the way to go. The one thing it got me wondering about was line lay. I know the old reels aren't necessarily designed to lay braid as well as the new, but is that more of an aesthetics thing or will it actually impact functionality.

As you probably read previously, I was looking to spool an old shimano reel with PP Spectra, so I would be getting the worst of both worlds in your example above. Not to mention, it's a 20+ year old reel. I like the idea of getting a new small reel (braid ready or at least designed with braid usage in mind) for the 7' rod and using braid with the mono backing and top shot. But I also was leaning towards replacing my 7500SS on my 10' rod for something in the 5500 size. I love the 7500SS and it's never let me down, but I'd be lying if I said my brother in law's 5500 Battle wasn't easier to fish with. The 7500 just feels too big for what I am trying to catch (reds, specs, pomps, etc.). I run 20# Ande mono on it now, and it works like a champ, but a smaller reel is going to be lighter, cast better, and let me have a bit more fight when I land something. That being said, I'm not sure the budget can afford to replace both the 7500 and the Shimano in the same year.

Quote:

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...what I am trying to catch (reds, specs, pomps, etc.)

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All you need is 10# max for these fish (many folks use 6#).
A single 4500 Penn Spinfisher V might just suite all your needs best.
Use the 7500 for tarpon and kings ;-)