Ive heard and seen a few times of people ” floating” their baits. What type of float do I need? Just a big cork? What are the advantages to floating your bait? Does it work with cigs
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Ive heard and seen a few times of people ” floating” their baits. What type of float do I need? Just a big cork? What are the advantages to floating your bait? Does it work with cigs
Freelining a bait under a cork is usually done with live bait. The advantage of floating a bait under a cork is that it keeps the bait in the optimal strike zone longer, rather than letting the bait dive down. It also helps you keep track of the bait so you can prevent tangles from happening.
It also gives Peaches something to aim at.
Popping corks work a little better than basic corks, because they cause a little surface commotion when the bait struggles.
No need to use corks with cigar minnows.
Work a cigar minnow like a slow motion lure.
Let it sink about 5-10 feet, then give it a few short thrusts every 5-10 seconds, with longer pauses inbetween. Work it back to the pier, and toss it out again and repeat. When it is windy, letting the line slack out briefly will help it sink, then tighten your line omce it is underwater so it doesn't overlap others' lines.
I get most of my strikes from kings around 3'-5' deep on cigar minnows, with an occasional surface breaker.
Or something to piss off Wilson.[quote author=Bubba link=topic=1232.msg11969#msg11969 date=1338307359]
It also gives Peaches something to aim at.
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[quote author=Viking Guy link=topic=1232.msg11970#msg11970 date=1338307998]
Work a cigar minnow like a slow motion lure.
Let it sink about 5-10 feet, then give it a few short thrusts every 5-10 seconds, with longer pauses inbetween. I get most of my strikes from kings around 3'-5' deep on cigar minnows, with an occasional surface breaker.
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Only recently started snobbling cigs and frequently find that I have floaters - can't get them to sink more than a foot. Use 27lb single strand with a #4 treble. Suggestions?
[quote author=divedeep link=topic=1232.msg11972#msg11972 date=1338310812]
[quote author=Viking Guy link=topic=1232.msg11970#msg11970 date=1338307998]
Work a cigar minnow like a slow motion lure.
Let it sink about 5-10 feet, then give it a few short thrusts every 5-10 seconds, with longer pauses inbetween. I get most of my strikes from kings around 3'-5' deep on cigar minnows, with an occasional surface breaker.
[/quote]
Only recently started snobbling cigs and frequently find that I have floaters - can't get them to sink more than a foot. Use 27lb single strand with a #4 treble. Suggestions?
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Longer wind loop. You dont want ot fo sink too far down because of gbe remora tbough
That makes sense. Have been trying to minimize the size of the wind loop to keep out of other folks' way. Never thought about that being my problem. :poke1: Thanks
[quote author=divedeep link=topic=1232.msg11974#msg11974 date=1338312004]
That makes sense. Have been trying to minimize the size of the wind loop to keep out of other folks' way. Never thought about that being my problem. :poke1: Thanks
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On windy days, you will see wind loops from one side of the octi to the other. Ive never seen it be a real problem, as most of the real windy days are not during the summer, thus less people fishing.
[quote author=divedeep link=topic=1232.msg11974#msg11974 date=1338312004]
That makes sense. Have been trying to minimize the size of the wind loop to keep out of other folks' way. Never thought about that being my problem. :poke1: Thanks
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Yeah, just let it sink prior to straightening the line out.
If you see the line "bumping", then remoras or Spadefish are on it. Bring it back to the surface in those cases for a visual. Sometimes a King will steal it from them in the process. :headbang: :headbang:
Thanks.
Regarding hooking the cig. I see some hook the cig from top down with the exposed hooks sitting on top of the nose facing forward and others from side to side with them resting on the side of the head. Is there a reason you wouldn't hook from the bottom up with the hooks sitting under the mouth? Preferences and why?
If you catch me at the pier, I can show you.
But for a quick explanatory overview:
Just in front of the eye is a white patch of flesh. Hook right into the in front of the eye--there is a nice bone there that catches the hook and keeps the cigar minnow attached. If the minnow is damaged and you cannot use that spot, hook it in the black dot on the gill plate behind the eye--another nice boney spot.
My highest recommendation is placing a stinger hook (smaller than the main one), about 3" off the main hook. Attach it somewhere near the dorsal fin on the cigar. You'll increae your hookups exponentially with a stinger.
One hook on the head will usually result in the body getting eaten and only a head left--especially if spanish attack.
I also recommend smaller black treble hooks on cigar minnows. Maybe it is due to camoflauge, but I get way more bites on them when using shiney black hooks that aren't much larger in diameter than the head.
[quote author=bamaboy link=topic=1232.msg11967#msg11967 date=1338306428]
Ive heard and seen a few times of people ” floating” their baits. [/quote]
What type of float do I need?
Optimally you want a float that is large enough to keep the bait at the surface +95% of the time.
If the bait pulls the float down for more than a few seconds it is too small.
Optimal float size for an average 6" LY is 3" cigar shaped styrofoam float.
I like the larger floats for larger baits like sardines, herring, hardtails or mullet.
Just a big cork?
That will work too (some folks even make their own), but the weighted floats though they give you more casting distance will hinder the natural swimming action of an LY and tire it prematurely.
The shape too can make a difference as the cigar shaped styrofloats are a bit more aero and hydro dynamic than a round 'bobber'.
Also the way the float is attached to the line can make a big difference at times.
NEVER use a 'snap on' float or wrap the line around the float.
A fast striking fish like a king will often either cut thru the float or break the line.
I like the short 'peg' types with the hole thru the middle even though you have to thread the float onto the line before you tie the leader.
Don't pinch the peg into the hole too tight or it will damage the line or the float.
Don't make it too loose or the float will slip up the line or the peg may fall out all together.
What are the advantages to floating your bait?
As mentioned it should keep your bait struggling near the surface in the optimal 'strike zone'.
That may be 0'-5' depending on the conditions and amount of sunlight, wind, waves and water clarity.
As also mentioned it keeps the bait away from eye ball suckers like spadefish, hardtails, remora, etc.
Another advantage it gives you a longer zone to drift your bait in.
A strong LY in a light current can easily swim 100 yards or more from the pier. (further than even Peaches can cast ;-)
On slow days when the fish may range far from the pier you might want to cover as much water as possible to 'find fish.'
Does it work with cigs?
Yes, at times it works great, especially for large spanish mackerel and school kings.
A little chop helps move the bait up and down imparting a little natural action to the baitfish.
[quote author=divedeep]Thanks.
Regarding hooking the cig. I see some hook the cig from top down with the exposed hooks sitting on top of the nose facing forward and others from side to side with them resting on the side of the head. [/quote]
Is there a reason you wouldn't hook from the bottom up with the hooks sitting under the mouth?
Two reasons actually.
1. The fish coming from underneath is more likely to see the hook and flare off.
2. More likely the hook being pulled from the eye (upward toward the pier) will back the hook point down into the head and the hook will fall out.
You can use this method, but you need a bigger hook (see #1 ;-)
Preferences and why?
In certain conditions (of wind or current or both) you may know the bait will be drifting in a certain direction and you may find it advantageous to hook the cig on one side or the other to compensate.
You can use a smaller hook too. This is an advantage in calm, clear conditions when the fish may be more 'hook wary'.
The typical 'hook down thru the head' is going to put two points on the upper side partially hidden from fish attacking it from below.
And the skull is THE hardest part of the bait. It will cast farther and last longer that way.
There may be times when a 'stinger hook' is advantageous too (short striking fish like spanish) especially in low light or limited water visibility.
Note: HOW you hook a live baitfish (like an LY) can make a HUGE difference in getting bites especially under a float.
You want a presentation that makes the LY struggle and is more easily seen (and felt) by a predator.
Depending on the conditions, where you hook your bait is one of THE most critical parts of your live bait presentation!
Check out my post in this thread for a graphic explaination...
http://boatlessfishing.com/forum/vie...=58&t=7596
Hope this helps!
:fishing:
thanks. you guys always come through
That LY diagram should be a sticky on here as well. That's excellent, #r.
[quote author=the original pier pest link=topic=1232.msg11971#msg11971 date=1338308415]
Or something to piss off Wilson.[quote author=Bubba link=topic=1232.msg11969#msg11969 date=1338307359]
It also gives Peaches something to aim at.
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HAHA yeah :-)
Very nice diagram on the LY , pictures always help! So how do I catch the LYs, remember, I'm a newby please.
Bait ribbon or sabiki
Thank you guys. I learn something every time I get on here. Even if I think I know something, I find another way of doing it. This forum :headbang:
I'd swear that since I started freelining baits rather than fishing a cork, I seem to get A LOT more bites than with the corks. Maybe its just the more natural looking presentation, I'm not sure but it seems there are definitely times were each method may be more productive.
That's a really cool illustration and explanations, Pier#r. Going to have to try those out and see if it makes the difference. Thanks a ton! :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
[quote author=divedeep link=topic=1232.msg11972#msg11972 date=1338310812]
[quote author=Viking Guy link=topic=1232.msg11970#msg11970 date=1338307998]
Work a cigar minnow like a slow motion lure.
Let it sink about 5-10 feet, then give it a few short thrusts every 5-10 seconds, with longer pauses inbetween. I get most of my strikes from kings around 3'-5' deep on cigar minnows, with an occasional surface breaker.
[/quote]
Only recently started snobbling cigs and frequently find that I have floaters - can't get them to sink more than a foot. Use 27lb single strand with a #4 treble. Suggestions?
[/quote]
I sometimes use a larger split shot just below the swivel.
bigger wind loop.... no need to add flash to your small leader.....splitshots are for high wind IMHO (25+) and googans
[quote author=Peaches link=topic=1232.msg12068#msg12068 date=1338389693]
bigger wind loop.... no need to add flash to your small leader.....splitshots are for high wind IMHO (25+) and googans
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+1