Is this reel worth repairing

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08-13-2018, 03:56 PM
old_skool

Is this reel worth repairing

I have a Penn 450ssg reel that needs some minor repair work. When turning the handle to reel the line in, after 10 or 12 turns, it will get harder to turn. Then after pushing a little harder it will start getting easier to turn again. This cycles continues ad infinitum. This is a discontinued reel but Penn still services it. For about $60 ($10 diagnostic fee, $25 flat labor charge, $15 shipping back to me) + whatever it costs me to ship it to them I can have it back to proper working order. For a little over $100, I could have a brand new Penn Battle II. So my dilemma is "fix the 450" or "get a new reel for another $50 or so".

How does the 450ssg stack up against the Penn Battle II. I realize that Penn's ssg line (made in China) is not of the same quality of the earlier Penn's (e.g. ss and sm series). I also have a Penn 7500ss and 5500ss and they are both a more quality reel than my 450ssg.

It should be noted that I can still use the 450 wit the "sticky" crank, it's just a little annoying.
08-13-2018, 04:05 PM
CarlF

Sounds like a bent main shaft, any others think the same??
Easy to replace it you order one.
08-13-2018, 04:13 PM
frednic

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarlF

Sounds like a bent main shaft, any others think the same??
Easy to replace it you order one.

Sounds right to me. Easy enough to tell - just take the plate off and observe while cranking (slowly, carefully, so you don't spill parts).
08-13-2018, 05:06 PM
ChileRelleno

Buy the parts from pennparts.com and fix it yourself, the Spinfishers are simplicity defined.
That or contact Keith aka Oceanmaster over at pensacolafishingforums.com, he'll fix for a very fair price.

This is the perfect excuse to buy the Battle II anyways, a d sell or fix the Spinfisher.
08-13-2018, 07:45 PM
old_skool

Quote:

Originally Posted by frednic

Sounds right to me. Easy enough to tell - just take the plate off and observe while cranking (slowly, carefully, so you don't spill parts).

I checked the shaft and it doesn't appear to be bent. I noticed that it seems to be directly related to how tight the drag is. If I don't turn the drag down very tight it operates smoothly. If I tighten the drag down more then it starts to bind about every 5 or 6 turns. Unfortunately, I have to have the drag set very light for it not to bind.
08-13-2018, 07:51 PM
ChileRelleno

Then just replace the whole drag stack.
pennparts.com is now mysticparts.com
$6.40 plus S/H for complete stack.
https://www.mysticparts.com/56-710SP-Kit-Drag-Washers-Complete-Kit-7-pcs-P24076.aspx

I'd probably replace the drag knob too, $10.40 plus S/H
https://www.mysticparts.com/52-550G-Knob-Drag-Knob-with-Seal-P23081.aspx
08-13-2018, 08:38 PM
old_skool

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChileRelleno

Then just replace the whole drag stack.
pennparts.com is now mysticparts.com
$6.40 plus S/H for complete stack.
https://www.mysticparts.com/56-710SP-Kit-Drag-Washers-Complete-Kit-7-pcs-P24076.aspx

I'd probably replace the drag knob too, $10.40 plus S/H
https://www.mysticparts.com/52-550G-Knob-Drag-Knob-with-Seal-P23081.aspx

I just ordered both these parts.......thx
08-13-2018, 08:42 PM
old_skool

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChileRelleno

Then just replace the whole drag stack.
pennparts.com is now mysticparts.com
$6.40 plus S/H for complete stack.
https://www.mysticparts.com/56-710SP-Kit-Drag-Washers-Complete-Kit-7-pcs-P24076.aspx

I'd probably replace the drag knob too, $10.40 plus S/H
https://www.mysticparts.com/52-550G-Knob-Drag-Knob-with-Seal-P23081.aspx

I watched several videos on installing these and they used some grease on the washers. I have some grease that I use on my firearms, would that work?
08-13-2018, 08:50 PM
ChileRelleno

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregInAtl

I watched several videos on installing these and they used some grease on the washers. I have some grease that I use on my firearms, would that work?

No, not the same type of grease.
Just install the drag stack dry, they'll be fine.
That is unless you've some Cal's Grease, that's the only drag grease I'll use with HT-100 drags.
08-13-2018, 08:52 PM
T-Boy

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregInAtl

I watched several videos on installing these and they used some grease on the washers. I have some grease that I use on my firearms, would that work?

Greg, did you take the old drag stack out and clean the inside of the spool and all metal and carbon washers. One of the carbon washers might be torn and is causing a binding when the drag is tight.
08-13-2018, 08:57 PM
Pier#r

Or the drag stack may be installed improperly (in the wrobg order)
08-13-2018, 09:02 PM
ChileRelleno

When was the last time you opened up the body, inspected and maintained it?
No time like the present, inspect the gears/parts, clean out the old lube and re-lube it.
Your firearms grease will do fine for that.
08-13-2018, 09:51 PM
old_skool

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Boy

Greg, did you take the old drag stack out and clean the inside of the spool and all metal and carbon washers. One of the carbon washers might be torn and is causing a binding when the drag is tight.

I took the old ones out, but I haven't cleaned them yet
08-13-2018, 10:30 PM
frednic

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregInAtl

I checked the shaft and it doesn't appear to be bent. I noticed that it seems to be directly related to how tight the drag is. If I don't turn the drag down very tight it operates smoothly. If I tighten the drag down more then it starts to bind about every 5 or 6 turns. Unfortunately, I have to have the drag set very light for it not to bind.

I don't know all there is to know, but that does not sound like the drag to me. Take a look at whether or not the stiffness correlates to a position of the spool traveling in and out. The shaft (with spool) is the only thing that I can think of that correlate to 5 or 6 turns of the crank.

Could the spool be rubbing as it travels in and out? That would change with a tightened drag as the spool would be held more tightly, but it could still be a shaft problem causing the spool to bind.

Edit: Having thought more about it, a torn or worn drag could make the spool sit on the shaft a little cocked which could cause it to rub against the frame. You still need to observe the position of the spool (extended and retracted) when the stiffness occurs.

Like I said, I don't know all there is to know, but it is just a mechanism and there are not too many things that can go wrong.
08-14-2018, 07:28 AM
old_skool

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChileRelleno

No, not the same type of grease.
Just install the drag stack dry, they'll be fine.
That is unless you've some Cal's Grease, that's the only drag grease I'll use with HT-100 drags.

Ever used this?
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/005...0&odnBg=FFFFFF

I saw a video of some guy replacing the drag stack and he was using it. It has some pretty good reviews
08-14-2018, 08:07 AM
CarlF

Never seen that, I use penn oil in the little tube.
08-14-2018, 04:43 PM
ChileRelleno

For drags with HT-100s I only use Cal's Grease.
For all other grease needs, internal parts/gears, I use Yamaha Marine Grease Blue.
For bearings I use Corrosion X.